Robyn Lynch
A deep dive into GORE-TEX by Document Studios for SNS Illustration by Gangbox
The Dublin-born menswear designer founded her brand upon graduating from the Menswear MA at the University of Westminster in 2018. Now based in London, Robyn shows her eponymous brand at London Fashion Week, and has an ongoing outdoors-inspired partnership with Columbia. Robyn’s work beautifully balances her interest in technical outerwear with her strong Irish cultural roots.
*When and why did you start working with GORE-TEX professionally GORE-TEX, when and where was that? *
I think the first time I heard about GORE-TEX was while I was studying for my MA. I tended to have a lot of interest in fabrication development and fibres, which stemmed from my time studying Textiles on my BA. We were taught about the compounds that make up different types of fabrics so I naturally had an interest in this. I really started to research more into technical outerwear fabrics when I chose to specialise in Menswear on my MA. This was back in 2017
If so, how do you think GORE-TEX is seen culturally, as in beyond its pure technical qualities?
That would have been when I worked on a capsule collection project with cyclewear brand Rapha. In 2020 we teamed up to make a small 10-piece collection of upcycled garments from a donation of deadstock and old samples. This was when I really got to work with the fabrication, unpicking the garments to construct them into a new product really allows you to see all the different layers and components that go into making these technical garments. We used different types of GORE-TEX, some fabrics with the thin membrane and others with the laminated coating.
How do you define the term ‘comfort’ in clothing, in particular technical apparel?
I think comfort is important in both fabrication and temperature regulation. The importance of breathable fabrics in technical apparel is defunct and the softness against your skin. For AW20 we developed our own attempt at achieving this balance. We took a regular outerwear rib stock fabric from Portugal and bonded it with a thin layer of fusible needle foam fabric from the UK. It changed the weight of the fabric completely and made the nylon extremely durable whilst also being comfortable against the skin. It also made the traditional tracksuit bottom suitable for the coldest conditions in perfect timing for when the world was turned upside down due to Covid and being outdoors was the main source of socialising.
Have you ever come across GORE-TEX in another cultural expression?
Does Instagram memes and TikTok count? I think as it is so popular now in my generation and Gen Z it's only normal that it also comes under crossfire with humour. I have seen a lot of very funny memes that stereotype the consumer of GORE-TEX.
Can you remember the first time you heard about?
It has its hype following but also a lot of very loyal followers who have been wearing it for a very long time. I don't know if this hyped culture is accepted well with its loyal day one followers, however. I think the rise of its popularity has to do with many factors, but I think honestly Covid has a big role to play. Like I said above, the need to socialise outdoors over the past two years has become fundamental and people need a new form of entertainment. I think hiking and being in the great outdoors took centre stage. I’d also argue the way consumers shop and think is changing. I think the future generations are becoming more aware of sustainability through fashion and learning more about technical fabrics that have a long lifeline instead of traditionally shopping fast fashion.
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